So I am out here in the ocean…just took a nasty wipe out…I am trying to catch the perfect wave…I found a break that feels like it could develop into something fucking amazing…but the conditions are not good right now…and the ocean is a little crowded with other surfers trying to catch my wave…I’ve learned not to be angry at them not to resent the ocean for allowing these other surfers to ride my waves…I don’t like the crowd but I understand why they are here and sympathize with them when the wave falls apart and crashes over them as it does to me…but I have my eye on this particular break point….and I am waiting for it to develop, I can see another asshole surfer eye my spot, wanting to snake it from me…as I drift out in the ocean waiting for the wave…I am hurt and angry but realizing I have no control over the ocean…I can see the ocean play the same game with him as it played with me…I am tempted to go for another spot…I can see other break points that are beautiful all over this ocean…the other night I saw an amazing one being surfed, it was respect and love and wanting and caring and desire and knowing and all those things that matter…I saw that someone else can feel like I dream…reciprocate instead of reject…rejoice instead of remorse…it was a nice wave, and gave me hope, but also makes me wonder about where I am in this ocean…should I paddle away from this spot to find that…I am waiting but is this really where I must be…
2 comments:
Time is slipping past. If you love to surf you should get as much of it in as possible.
whats the rush? i am not about catching every wave that comes by...i am waiting on that perfect ride to take me in...i've paddled to a sweet spot, now i am waiting for the conditions to get better cuz i am hoping that perfect wave will come and snag me up...
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